Why have high-end brands completely “blacklisted” PE/PLA laminated packaging?

Among today’s leading international luxury skincare brands, “vegan” and “cruelty-free” have been the most frequently mentioned terms in recent years. However, some clients have recently told me that their products have been the subject of consumer complaints. The reason is that, although the brands claim to be vegan and cruelty-free, third-party testing has revealed that their formulations contain non-biodegradable plastic components—the culprit being PE film coating.

Subsequently, while communicating with founders of numerous emerging overseas beauty brands, I identified a common and particularly challenging pain point: Brands require cosmetic paper tubes to be 100% ocean-degradable and absolutely free of any plastic coating; however, without a waterproof and oil-resistant barrier layer inside the tube, the plant-based oils in lipsticks and balms cannot be contained, leading to product leakage or soiled tube walls.

The Root of the Problem: Why Have Traditional PE/PLA Laminates Been Completely “Blacklisted” by High-End Vegan Brands?

To prevent oil-based cosmetics from leaking, traditional skincare paper tubes are typically coated with a layer of PE (polyethylene) on the inner wall. However, PE is a non-biodegradable petrochemical plastic, which directly contradicts the “zero-plastic” ethos of vegan and eco-friendly brands.

Later, the packaging industry introduced biodegradable films like PLA (polylactic acid), touted as eco-friendly. Although PLA is biodegradable, its degradation requires specific conditions—it typically decomposes only in industrial-scale “high-temperature composting” facilities. If consumers casually discard PLA packaging into natural soil or the ocean, it will persist for centuries just like traditional plastic, or even break down into “microplastics” that cause even greater harm. For eco-conscious brands striving for “absolute biodegradability with zero pollution to the natural environment,” this “pseudo-degradation” clearly fails to meet internal standards or withstand consumer scrutiny.

Process Solution: Disruptive “Black Technology”—Seaweed-Based Coatings
To break the physical impasse of “no plastic, no barrier; plastic, not eco-friendly,” the packaging engineering field has witnessed a cutting-edge technological breakthrough: the complete replacement of traditional PE/PLA laminates with seaweed-based coatings.
Films made from seaweed typically exhibit excellent heat resistance. For example, a brown algae-based film developed by a research team at the University of Leeds in the UK can withstand temperatures as high as 230 degrees Celsius. Some commercialized seaweed-extract coatings (such as Notpla’s technology) can also achieve heat resistance and waterproof/oil-resistant properties comparable to traditional plastics.

As the name suggests, seaweed-based coatings are biomacromolecular polymers extracted from natural marine algae (such as kelp and brown algae). Through a specialized bio-crosslinking process, this all-natural extract forms a dense, transparent protective layer on the surface of paper.

The three key commercial and technical advantages of seaweed-based coatings:

1. Truly 100% ocean-degradable, putting an end to microplastics
This is the most irreplaceable and standout feature of seaweed-based coatings. Unlike PLA, which requires industrial composting, seaweed-based materials originate from the ocean. Even if these cosmetic paper tube packages accidentally enter natural water bodies or the ocean, they will be completely and naturally decomposed by marine microorganisms within a very short time (usually within a few weeks). Not only do they not produce microplastics, but their decomposition products can even serve as nutrients for marine life. This truly embodies the principle of “from nature, back to nature,” achieving zero environmental pollution.

2. Exceptional Oil- and Water-Resistant Barrier Properties
Although derived from 100% natural sources, this high-tech modified algae-based coating makes no compromises in physical barrier performance. It forms a robust barrier on the inner surface of the paper tube, effectively resisting capillary penetration by base oils, plant waxes, and moisture commonly found in cosmetic products. This perfectly resolves the technical challenges associated with vegan lipsticks, antiperspirants, and solid perfumes—such as “leaking from the bottom” or “uneven” oil stains on the outer surface—in plastic-free tubes, ensuring products maintain an exceptionally premium visual appearance throughout their shelf life.

3. Aligns Perfectly with Vegan Principles, Boosting ESG Ratings
Seaweed is one of the most sustainable resources on Earth; its growth requires no freshwater, occupies no arable land, and even absorbs large amounts of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Applying seaweed-based coatings to packaging not only meets 100% vegan and cruelty-free standards but also significantly reduces a brand’s overall carbon footprint. Against the backdrop of Europe’s stringent plastic restrictions, this is the ultimate tool for companies to improve their ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) ratings and gain access to high-end eco-friendly supermarkets.